Five days, six flights, three kids, one hotel - The Aiyana. Two Nglalawa sunset sails, a long, hot hike to the lighthouse and a crawl of giant tortoises. Drift diving the Njao gap, kayaking the Ngezi forest mangroves, snorkelling the sandbank. Happy hours lost diving for urchin shells and picking up shells on the beach at low tide. Many monkeys, a hermit crab race and a turtle bite. One dead laptop and many Kilimanjaros: the beer, not the mountain. As the slogan says, if you can’t climb it, drink it.